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On first inspection, Maheshwar is a sleepy little place. A walled city on the edge of the holy Narmada River, it has long held spiritual significance and pilgrims travel from far and wide to pray and immerse themselves in the sun-spangled waters. Boats float up and down and as the sun dips below the horizon, strains of chanting fill the air in a sensory experience like no other. But delve a little deeper, and you’ll find a hive of activity: the ghats are a whirl of colour and gossip and a wander through the streets of the Old Quarter will reveal multi-coloured buildings and a frenzy of weavers attending to the iconic silk fabric, Maheshwari. For travellers, it’s a spot to enjoy a little R&R, well away from the tourist path – and up your temple intake substantially!
Ghats line the sacred Narmada River, where pilgrims gather beneath the impressive 17th-century fort built by Queen Ahilyabai Holkar. Her legacy extends beyond architecture to the distinctive Maheshwari textiles still woven with traditional techniques in workshops like the Rehwa Society. Boat rides offer views of riverfront temples, while evening aartis bring the ghats alive with ritual and light. The fort complex houses multiple temples, including the ancient Raj Rajeshwar, alongside a museum displaying royal artifacts. Just 90 minutes away lies Mandu with its Afghan-era palaces, while closer to town, visitors can sample traditional Malwa cuisine featuring dal bafla and local sweets. This riverside settlement provides an authentic alternative to central India's busier destinations.
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